Katy’s Trusted AC Tune-Up, Clean & Check Specialists
Our HVAC system is ready for the hot weather in Katy, Texas. Preventive maintenance can help solve your little problems before they get big.
📞 Call or Text Now:
(281) 270-9535 Get your HVAC system ready for the hot Katy, Texas, weather. Preventative
📋 Our Complete 20-Point Cooling System Checklist
Electrical & Control Diagnostics
⚡ Test Capacitors: Measure microfarads on the dual run capacitor to prevent compressor failure.
⚡ Inspect Contactors: Check for pitting, burning, or arcing on the outdoor contactor points.
⚡ Tighten Connections: Verify and torque all high-voltage and low-voltage wire terminals.
⚡ Test Relays & Control Boards: Check sequencing and voltage drops across control circuits.
⚡ Calibrate Thermostat: Verify proper operation, cycling, and temperature accuracy.
Refrigerant & Compressor Monitoring
📉 Monitor Operating Pressures: Check suction and liquid lines to ensure system is operating within spec.
📉 Measure Superheat & Subcooling: Calculate exact refrigerant charge efficiency based on outdoor ambient temps.
📉 Inspect Compressor Amperage: Measure compressor amp draw on startup and running to spot premature motor wear.
📉 Leak Search (Visual): Check all service valves and accessible joints for signs of oil or refrigerant loss.
Airflow & Mechanical Inspection
🌀 Inspect Blower Motor: Check the indoor fan motor amp draw, bearings, and balance.
🌀 Examine Fan Blades: Check outdoor condenser fan blades for alignment and structural stress cracks.
🌀 Evaluate Air Filter: Inspect and swap or clean the return air filter to guarantee unrestricted airflow.
🌀 Inspect Ductwork: Check accessible supply and return plenums for obvious air leaks or thermal breaches.
🌀 Measure Static Pressure: Test total external static pressure to verify the system isn't choking for air.
Deep Cleaning & System Hygiene
🧼 Clean Condenser Coil: Wash away grass clippings, dirt, and cottonwood debris from the outdoor unit.
🧼 Inspect Evaporator Coil: Check the indoor coil for dust accumulation, restriction, or biological growth.
🧼 Flush Condensate Drain: Clear out algae, slime, and debris from the primary drain line.
🧼 Test Safe-T-Switch: Verify the float switch shuts down the system if a backup occurs, preventing ceiling water damage.
🧼 Treat Drain Pan: Add preventative pan tablets to control sludge and keep lines flowing smoothly.
Final System Review
🌡️ Measure Temperature Split: Verify a healthy $16^\circ\text{F}$ to $20^\circ\text{F}$ drop across the evaporator coil between supply and return air.
Contact us today for a great price on this 20-AC point check
We Fix Them All
It is incredibly frustrating to watch your electric bill skyrocket just because you're trying to stay comfortable. You are exactly right: running your AC a lot absolutely consumes more kilowatt-hours, but there are a few major reasons why your system might be pulling way more power now than it used to.
When an air conditioner has to work harder or run longer cycles to cool the house, its energy consumption surges. Here are the main technical reasons why your AC is eating up so many extra kWh right now:
1. The Extreme Texas Summer Heat Delta
The greater the difference between the outdoor temperature and the temperature you set on your thermostat, the harder your system has to work. When outdoor temperatures push well into the 90s or 100s, the system runs for much longer just to maintain your indoor settings. More runtime hours directly translate into more kWh on your electric meter.
2. Dirty Outdoor Condenser Coils
If your outdoor unit is choked with dust, grass clippings, or dirt, it can't reject the heat it pulls from inside your home.
The Result: The compressor has to run hotter and under much higher pressures, drawing significantly more electrical current (amps) just to do its job. Cleaning these coils is one of the fastest ways to drop your system's $\text{kWh}$ usage.
3. Restricted Indoor Airflow (Clogged Filters)
A heavily caked air filter or a dirty indoor evaporator coil starves your system of airflow.
The Result: Your blower motor has to work harder against the restriction, and the system can't efficiently exchange heat. Because the house cools down much more slowly, the AC stays turned on for hours at a time, running up your utility bill.
4. Low Refrigerant Charge or Freon Leaks
If your system is low on refrigerant, its cooling capacity drops drastically.
The Result: The AC will blow slightly cool or lukewarm air instead of crisp, cold air. Because it can never quite reach the temperature you set on the thermostat, the system runs almost nonstop all day, continuously burning through kilowatt-hours.
5. Aging Components and Weak Capacitors
As a system ages (especially beyond the 10–12-year mark), its overall mechanical efficiency naturally declines. Electrical components, such as a dual-run capacitor, can weaken over time. When a capacitor starts to degrade, the compressor and fan motors operate less efficiently and pull more electrical current at startup and during operation.
"Sky-High Electric Bills in Katy? Why Your AC is Consuming Excess kWh This Summer."
Real Story: How a $6,000 "Dead Compressor" Quote Became a $150 Fix
A few years back, I was called out to an older farmhouse where another company had already condemned the system, claiming it had a completely dead compressor and needed a $6,000 replacement.
Instead of just taking their word for it, I actually opened up the unit to investigate. I discovered the compressor wasn't dead at all—it was just stuck in a high-pressure lockout on its safety switch, protecting itself. I pushed the reset button, and the system kicked right back on.
Once I hooked up my gauges, I noticed the head pressure (PSI) was dangerously high. The outdoor condenser coils looked clean from a distance, but once I opened the housing up, I found them severely impacted with dirt and debris on the inside, where no one was looking. I gave the coils a deep, professional cleaning, brought the pressures back to factory specs, and turned a $6,000 nightmare into a simple $150 service call.
Because we kept up with the preventative maintenance (PM) every single year after that, that exact same 'dead' unit was still running strong a decade later